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11
food, nutrition, and feeding / Which is Best Feed product for baby Fish... ?
« Last post by zaangle on February 06, 2012, 10:34:10 pm »
Hey Guys,

Can any one Tell me Which is Best Feed Products for Baby Fishes..
12
food, nutrition, and feeding / Re: the best hair removal cream
« Last post by zaangle on February 06, 2012, 10:31:59 pm »
Hey i use Veet.. that is best hair removal cream.
13
Disease / Re: Is this Natural or a disease
« Last post by vine18 on August 07, 2011, 09:38:07 pm »
I dont think it is natural or birthmarkings :-\ :P 8) ??? :) :D ;) ;D :-* :-X :P :-X
14
food, nutrition, and feeding / the best hair removal cream
« Last post by mathew875 on June 15, 2011, 02:48:15 pm »
laser hair removal side effects permanent hair removal products the best hair removal cream cheap laser hair removal hair removal for men
15
Disease / Is this Natural or a disease
« Last post by vine18 on February 05, 2011, 08:15:42 pm »
My Betta fish has some black splotches on him. He lived for about 2 weeks. Is this a disease or is it natural ???
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Small talk / Hunting
« Last post by vine18 on November 09, 2010, 11:15:50 am »
I go small game hunting a lot. ;) ;)
17
Small talk / Re: introduction
« Last post by vine18 on March 13, 2010, 06:57:05 pm »
Hi. I'm new to this forum  :). I don't know much about keeping and raising lots of fish but I have had a few.
19
Water conditions / water quality
« Last post by gourami on February 26, 2010, 10:12:31 am »
The food

If you are patient and make the best conditions in your aquarium you need no special food for the breed. I think it is not good to search for natural food. That way you can get unwanted guest to your aquarium. You can use the small food you buy in stores and that is normally clean.

Water quality | two kind | filtering | small aquaries | Back to aqua |to family page |home |



We call them "moina" and they are Japanese water fleas. One explode in four in two weeks.

If you are patient and make the best conditions in your aquarium you need no special food for the breed. I think it is not good to search for natural food. That way you can get unwanted guest to your aquarium. You can use the small food you buy in stores and that is normally clean.

In everyday use it a compromise to see that you do not clean the aquarium too much. Take a looking glass or better and look at for instance the place were rests from your foddering lies on the bottom. Within an hour or so you see an intensive microscopic life in an old aquarium. Those small things feed the tiny fishes besides small algae and beings.

I think I have killed more small fishes by my trials than I have saved. Let the fishes be and have their freedom. Then some day you will see them with many small ones. In the well-controlled aquarium they have much better conditions than in wildlife. Many of the fishes are breed in artificial conditions and would not live a day in wildlife.



Water quality

To say it short I use no chemicals. The only addition is 0,02 % sea-salt when I change 1/3 of the water twice a month for normal sweet water fish. For Malavi fish I double the salt and add one teaspoon bicarbonate to ten litres. I have calcium oxide in the filter ... see that.

A little more salt may be added if you have worked much with the bottom and got the water polluted.

Sea-salt contends about 70 of our most common elements and substances. Other needed substances come with the food. The salt is simply disinfecting and most of us civilised people get it in our drinking water. I just ad a little more. The growth of bacteria and other small being is proportional to the temperature. So do not keep the aquarium warmer than necessary.

Rule No 1. The water quality is kept by changing 1/3 of water twice a month. If few fish it can be more seldom. If many fish the quality is kept by changing water. Look out some fish may be sensitive for a change in Ph. That is why the amount of water should not be too high. I have a fish that got the swimbladder damaged by some bigger fish. It is still going strong after three years. But when I change water it has difficulties in getting down.

If only the water is kept fresh there will be no diseases and problems ... and as I said do not keep higher temperature than necessary. Indoors they get the necessary amount of warmth by the constant temperature. In nature it varies very much. In my apartment the changes in temperature comes natural with the year. It means breeding in summer when I have higher temperature indoor



Two kind of water

During the years I have used two kind of water depending on the fishes. The Malavi-water I have described and I keep it around pH 8 partly with the lime and bicarbonate, but also the regular water shifts that keep a quality that varies very little.

In that water you can keep African chiklids from Malavi and Tanganyika. But it fits even guppy poecilia reticulata, molly poecilia spenops, swordtail xiphophorus helleri, platy xiphophorus maculatus. They all request clean water and the salt is a cleanser. They can stand ten times more than the recommended 0,02 % seasalt, but then they have to be accustomed. However the water shifts of 1/3 of the water, sufficient plants and light keep the aquarium fresh and minimises the problem. The biggest threat is when buying fish or plants that can bring disease to the aquarium.

In that water you can keep most of the normal aquarium plants. The only difference is that some of them will not be as big as in neutral water. Do not keep the temperature higher than necessary. Most of the plants prefer less than 25 degrees Celsius and often near 20 degrees. So a normal temperature about 22 --- 23 degrees is preferable.

The other water is slightly acid around 6,8 pH and your water supply gives the hardness. In my case from Lake Vaenern dH 2,8 and the distributor use a little normal salt as cleanser. If the pH is kept lower than pH 7 there is no risk for the nitrite-process that drive out oxygen of the water. Normally there are two cases. One is when new fresh water is added and gets pH to 7 and then the nitrogen react. The same maybe the case a short while after you has feed the fishes. It causes that the fishes leave their excrements and also that forage rest are increasing the nitrogen in the water.

Do not be angry if you see the blue skin of blue nitrite algae. Alter your foddering and try to minimise the protein rests. More open water may be a solution. But remember you do not get it away by increasing the water swallow in the surface. Once you get too much nitrogen in it must either be transformed to algae or taken away with the water.

This is the water for most of the other fishes in trade. With roots, leaves and rests in the water it will become acid. But water exchange will keep it on a tolerable level.

Most of the plants like this water. The only problem is to keep the FE =iron-level in the water. It is a good investment to buy a test set and make routine out of preparing the water for the plants. In Sweden the FE-product for aquariums is very to expensive if you have a big aquarium or two.

Instead I used a product for gardens called EDTA and made a 2,8 % solution. Then I add one teaspoon or 5 millilitres to 50 litres fresh water once I have reached the right level in the entire aquarium. The right level must be reached by experience since it depends on kind of plants and how many. The fishes can not stand too much of the FE so the pure solution must not reach them.

The rule for addition of plant fertiliser is also to reach the level by experience. I use the commercial product for home flowers and add 2 --3 millilitres per 100 litres. The colour of the normal plants tells about how they feel. If they are brighter than normal they have got to little nitrogen and/or light. Are they bluish green they get too much nitrogen and/or light are the thumb rules.



Filtering

The zoo dealers love to sell expensive pumps and filters. I had the money in the beginning and bought the famous Eheim pump suitable for the size of mine big pot. Never mind it lasted for 18 years so it was not the big issue compared with time.

Worst of all in the need it was not the optimal solution. Good biological filtering asks several steps in the process. The first is getting air into the water. In nature it happens when it flow over stony places and waterfalls. Next is the lagoon and slow running place with biological use of the nutriment in the water. Then it is good to give it air again and blow out some ammoniac. Then more biological growth and as finish a waterfall.

They use this technique speeded up in the water cleaning establishments. I let my glazier make a glass case long as the aquarium and about half the width. In one end I pump up water and let it stream as much as possible before the filtering stuff. Then follows an open area with some lime for my Malavi water. Another pieces of filtering stuff and in the other end the fresh water drop down.

The filter can run for about two years without cleaning it with the fishes I have now. It is good to have a little light on it so that the algae grow. If I get much of the blue I now I give too much food. Last winter the big pump was worn out and I bought a little cheap pump. In a filter it is better if the water flow slowly. I have no nee for stream in the aquarium so I got the cheapest possible solution.



The small aquarium

The thumb rule for these is simply to be more cautious about everything. It is difficult to keep all the factors at right level in a little aquarium. It is easier to feed too much. Exchange the water regularly and keep clean for all kind of rests and it will all make it good for fishes and plants.


20
Bubblers and filters / Do I Need a Bubbler in My Aquarium?
« Last post by gourami on February 26, 2010, 10:10:27 am »
All fish need oxygen in order to survive. A bubbler works off of an air pump and provides oxygen to your fish. The air pump will plug into the wall and the air will move through the airline tubing into the bubbler  inside of your fish tank. All tank needs bubblers, especially small fish tanks. Bettas are often times sold in a little bowl, this is inhumane. These small tanks need bubblers as well. The only way you can get away with keeping it in this bowl is if you add fresh water to the bowl everyday. This will provide your fish with oxygen. If you have a ten gallon tank you will need a bubbler. If you have a 2 1/2 or 5 gallon tank you can get away with not using a bubbler only if you have a filter hooked up which shoots water into the water.

If you have a large fish tank you will need a bubbler as well. If you have a saltwater tank you will not need a bubbler because you will have a canister filter hooked up which shoots a lot of oxygen into the water. The only time you can have a tank without a bubbler is if you have a powerful filter which shoots oxygen bubbles into the tank on a continuous basis. If you shut off the filter you should only go up to an hour without a bubbler or you fish could possibly die. The larger the fish the less time you have without a bubbler or filter.

Bubblers will cost you around $10, for the air pump, airline tubing and bubbler. A filter on the other hand will cost you at least $20. The filters main purpose is not to provide the fish with oxygen. The main purpose of a filter is to clean the water from debris, fish waste and uneaten food. The purpose of the bubbler is to provide the fish with oxygen if there is not a powerful filter hooked up to the tank. If you take a close look at the water coming from your filter it should produce little bubbles in the water. You can raise up the water level in the tank to provide the fish with more oxygen from the water. If you If you lower the water level in your tank this will provide your fish will less oxygen.


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Comments+ Post a New CommentView CommentsType in Your Comments Below

 

You cannot leave your fish without a bubbler or filter. Your fish will soon die. This is why little goldfish bowls are inhumane. People will leave the goldfish in a little bowl, come back in a few hours and the fish  will be dead. This is because the fish didn't have any oxygen. You will need to keep your fish in at least a 2 1/2 gallon tank with a bubbler. Your best bet is to hook up both a bubbler and a filter to provide your fish with a healthy life. You can also choose to hook up a bubbler but remain without a filter as long as you change the water every couple of days and provide 35% fresh water.

The answer is that all fish need oxygen and oxygen is provided by bubblers. If you have a filter you will most likely still need a bubbler, unless the filter is providing enough oxygen in the water.
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